Want to see what the blue clock housing looks like and the change over process ?

Here is the simple clock change and makeover using the best stuff on the market !

tz24.jpg (132950 bytes) Start with a clock taken from TZ
tz23.jpg (143050 bytes) tz22.jpg (120677 bytes)

You can see its yellowed significantly over time and looks pretty dingy

tz21.jpg (394092 bytes)

Here is the parts we will use to make it look good again.  A NOS clear back, NOS clear center piece, NOS clear front, NOS gears,NOS hands, PBLITZ clock boardset and a new Blue clock housing.

tz20.jpg (88043 bytes) First I take off the old clear lense a little yellowed for sure !
tz19.jpg (101602 bytes) Taking off the rest of the screws allows the clock to come apart.  I'm short a screw so I'll have to get as extra at the hardware store.
tz18.jpg (110663 bytes) The old clock board is shown here. These are fairly famous for overheating over time and for best results the boards or lights should be replaced with something that doesn't generate as much heat.  I chose the PBLitz clock boards.
tz17.jpg (92812 bytes) Once the clock board is off you get to the back opto interrupter.
tz16.jpg (131827 bytes) This shows the gears and which one goes where.  Its actually pretty hard to get these wrong as its pretty self expanitory.  Its always a good idea to get pictures just in case though !
tz15.jpg (104818 bytes) Stripping all the gears out is fairly straight forward once the E-clips are removed.  You can see how dirty and yellowed the old back is !
tz14.jpg (93479 bytes) Shown here is all the old parts.
tz13.jpg (115225 bytes) I use metal glo for all the metal parts and shafts.   This both polishes and cleans.  Its good stuff.  I recommend it for just about any metal cleaning job.  Its a good all purpose metal abrasive polishing paste !
tz12.jpg (94262 bytes) Here we can compare old and the new in looks.
tz11.jpg (99291 bytes) First we transfer the motor of the new back.  Two phillips screws hold this in place.
tz10.jpg (83463 bytes) Next each of the shafts are moved with their respective E-clips.
tz9.jpg (104646 bytes) Here the gears are all laid in place to test the fit.   When satisfied I'll put the E-clips on to hold them in place.
tz8.jpg (83203 bytes) Reversing the disassembly steps the opto-interrupter is reassembled.
tz7.jpg (124212 bytes) The old stuff looks pretty yellowed.  Since I didn't have a new sticker for the clock face I have to reuse the old which is in pretty decent shape.
tz6.jpg (95302 bytes) Using a heat gun I heat the entire sticker up warming it so the adhesive loosens a little.  Then I peel it off the plastic.
tz5.jpg (112866 bytes) I have to remove the old adhesive.  Goo Gone does the trick easily.  I let the goo gone soak for a few minutes and then carefully using my hands peel off the old adhesive.  It comes off like crumbs.  I keep applying this until the sticker is clean of old adhesive and feels very smooth.
tz4.jpg (90169 bytes) Next I have to apply the sticker to the new center clear piece.  I use a light coating of 3M adhesive spray to re-glue the sticker onto the center piece.
tz3.jpg (151589 bytes) Next I put the blue housing on.  Man does it look sweet !
tz2.jpg (191365 bytes) Finally I add the dry center piece and the clock hands.
tz1.jpg (103647 bytes) Now I have a pile of old yellowed plastic pieces and an old clock board . . . these will go in the old TZ parts bin with the rest of the pieces.

Here we have the final assembled unit ready to go !

tzclockdone.jpg (344309 bytes)This clock looks smokin' good !!

Blue clock housings are available for $ 50.00.      These are replacement items not originals.  Meaning they are far superior and far clearer!